【南非部落小日記】第九章: 終章未完 A mini journal of my south african tribe CH.9

意識到馬上就要離開村落的那天,心情極差,確實地感受到自己不願道別。為什麼?明知道一切終會有個句點,還是不願意面對。至少我還是了解自己的,知道如果道別前我越難過,代表這是個越好的回憶。

 離開後,村落還是會按照它自己的步調生活,持續這樣的寧靜、持續這樣的美麗、持續發散它特有的魅力。況且,這一離開,幾乎就是永遠的道別了。我坐在長椅上,望著山脈咀嚼著自己的失落。






 Ngelengele跑來旁邊坐下,可能感覺到我的低潮。我幾乎要鼻酸了,我問他:你知道什麼是email嗎?他搖搖頭。我再問:你聽說過Internet嗎?他歪著頭看我,說:Internet很小嗎? 我看看他,不禁笑了。

兩種完全不同的文化,兩個完全不同的世界,其實最終也不是那麼的不同,我們終究都有情感、有喜怒哀樂、有能力建立友誼。超脫了種族和語言之外,我們終究都是,人。


好在,最後一個周末,樂團會和我們一起下山,待兩天後再在Port St. Johns道別。

離開村落的那個黃昏,我和男孩們一起坐在卡車後面,Pem彈著吉他,MongiMntuyedwa唱歌,NgelengeleRaul分享一瓶啤酒。

站在屋旁的村民向我們揮揮手,牛隻緩慢地讓出了道路,路邊揚起了陣陣沙土,圓頂草屋漸漸在視野裡變小,卡車隨著金黃色的落日駛出村落,sala kahle再見,Gwexintaba



我們九個人加兩隻狗,乘著小卡車沿著山路而下,從村落到PSJ,還有一個半小時車程,大家唱起了Sangoma之歌(Sangoma是指原始文化中治療疾病和預言的巫師),這首歌貫串了待在村落的日子,我和Raul也加入大合唱的隊伍,大家都好開心,扯著喉嚨引吭高歌。

這天剛好是滿月,地平線上還留有夕陽的餘暉,澄黃色的月亮從山頭後悄悄探出,我們抓緊了毯子阻擋入夜的寒風,一路下山。


最後兩個在Port St. Johns的日子,我只睡了四小時。白天去燈塔眺望海洋,看到無數的海豚舞躍,和遠方的鯨魚噴水。晚上,我們圍著火炬,打鼓唱歌跳舞。一天傍晚,Louis買了條剛釣起的大魚,一行人跑到海邊當起了街頭藝人,一邊烤魚一邊練團,好不愜意。在背包客棧男孩們的演出獲得滿堂彩,幾個旅客也想去村落體驗,賣出了幾個手工皮包和CD


齒輪就這樣繼續轉動著。





道別前幾個小時,大家都進入夢鄉,我們坐在火炬旁和三兩個黑人閒聊,不知到幾點,我和Ngelengele決定出去散步。

我們走到海邊,想起傍晚在沙灘上出現的那道彩虹,黑夜的海洋和白天是判若兩人,告訴他曾經我不喜歡晚上的海洋,直到有一次在台灣的北海岸聽見了黑夜和海組成的生命力。

我們徹夜坐在岸邊,直到海水又再度變成了湛藍色。



日出後,我們都知道,是該道別了。本以為自己一定會忍不住淚水,沒想到這次不捨的感覺和以往不同,是很深沉的依戀,但卻很平靜。


我拍拍他的肩膀,叫他不要忘了我,告訴他蓋自己的草屋時記得要多建幾扇窗戶。

我們相視而笑。

Ngelengele對我說,I-Ching,謝謝妳,妳就像 ilanga(太陽)




6 comments

  1. love to read your sharing! would u mind to share how did you find this voluntary work?

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    1. Thank you!!! yea actually I was searching on the net for some volunteer programs, then accidentally found an organization. unfortunately they are not cooperating with the village anymore as far as i know. I was searching for "remote, original, social work, local community" something like that and i thought it was the place i wanted and needed to go. If you are interested in going to the village, i can share more info. just let me know. :-)

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  2. I really love to read your story here. It's really amazing ! Could you share which volunteer organization you join? Thank you :)

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    1. This is the village, a white south african, Louise, living in the black south african village. I found out about this village through other organization, but i think it's easier to contact him directly.

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/magwavolunteers/?fref=ts

      You can say you know about this village from I-Ching's blog. Louise doesn't go online often but you can leave him a message on the page. I'd be more than happy to see if there are other people visiting the village, and if you do, please let me know i wanna give something to the boys in the village. :-)

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    2. Sure!! Thank you for sharing your amazing life to all :)

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